Refrigerator not cooling? A step-by-step checklist
Work through these checks in order. Several take only a minute, and the rest will help a technician diagnose the problem faster.
Updated October 2026.
Step 1: Confirm the temperature
Put an appliance thermometer in a glass of water on the middle shelf and check it after a few hours. Food safety guidance is to keep the refrigerator at 40°F or below and the freezer at 0°F.
Step 2: Check settings and power
- Was the temperature dial bumped or a "demo" or "vacation" mode turned on?
- Is the interior light on? If not, check the outlet and breaker.
Step 3: Look at airflow inside
Overpacked shelves, or containers blocking the vents between freezer and fridge, can starve the fresh-food section of cold air.
Step 4: Clean the condenser coils
Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the toe-kick grille (or access the back) and vacuum or brush the coils. Dusty coils make the compressor work harder and cool less, which is common in Valley homes with pets or garage refrigerators.
Step 5: Listen for the fans
- Condenser fan (near the compressor at the bottom back): should run when the compressor runs.
- Evaporator fan (inside the freezer): press the door switch with the door open. You should hear or feel the fan.
A silent fan is a strong clue to share with the technician.
Step 6: Check for frost on the freezer back panel
A thick layer of frost on the freezer's rear panel usually means the defrost system has failed, so ice is blocking airflow to the fridge. A manual defrost (unplug with doors open for 24 hours, towels down) may get you working temporarily, but the defrost part still needs repair.
Step 7: Test the door seals
Close the door on a dollar bill at several points. If it pulls out easily, the gasket isn't sealing.
Call a technician if:
- The compressor is running but nothing gets cold
- You hear repeated clicking from the back every few minutes
- Fans aren't running, or frost returns after defrosting
- There's an oily residue near the tubing, which could mean a refrigerant leak